So there we were in Kolkata, soaking in the energy of its traffic and old-world charm. The trams rattled by, horse carts waited outside Victoria Memorial, jhal muri sellers worked their magic on the streets, and puchka (the local name for pani puri) vendors popped up on every corner. The local carts, or thelas, were piled high with star fruits and water apples. As February eased into its final days, the drizzle gave way to perfect walking weather. It felt like the right day for the zoo.

First impressions

When I say this is one of the most underrated places to explore in the city, I truly mean it. Over 50 of my local relatives shook their heads, insisting it was not worth a visit and they had not been there at all or many years ago, and Google reviews did not give me much hope either. Still, we decided to give it a shot. We arrived at a slightly worn-out gate, saw the Rs. 50 per adult entry fee, and wondered if the day might disappoint.

On the other side of the ticket counter, it felt like stepping into a secret garden. A beautifully kept lawn with animal-shaped topiary led us towards the real stars of the show. The Alipore Zoological Garden is large, well-maintained and home to an impressive variety of wildlife from India and abroad. We saw zebras, giraffes, rhinoceroses, hippos, kangaroos, jaguars, and birds, including cassowaries, hornbills, exotic parrots, and peacocks.

Five things you might not know about Alipore Zoo, Kolkata

1. Alipore Zoo in Kolkata opened to the public in 1876, making it the oldest formal zoo in India.
2. It covers about 47 acres and uses open-air moated enclosures that resemble natural habitats.
3. The zoo once housed Adwaita, an Aldabra giant tortoise believed to be over 250 years old when it died in 2006.
4. It has been a pioneer in breeding white tigers, reticulated giraffes and the endangered Manipur brow-antlered deer.
5. In 1889, the birth of a Sumatran rhinoceros here marked a rare global achievement in captive breeding.

Why it works

• Enclosures are spacious, with areas where animals can rest away from public view.
• Paved paths, benches and refreshment stalls make it easy to explore comfortably.
• Toilets are located at opposite ends of the zoo for convenience.
• The animals appeared healthy and relaxed, with no signs of stress.

The weather that day was a gift, warm enough for short sleeves yet cool enough to walk for hours without breaking a sweat. We wandered through leafy paths, stopping often to rest on shaded benches, never once feeling rushed or tired. The twins eagerly read every fact on the animal display boards, pointing out details to each other like little wildlife experts.

Their excitement peaked when a dozen giraffes suddenly broke into a graceful gallop across their open enclosure, their hooves kicking up little clouds of dust. Moments later, the deep, guttural roar of a jaguar drew a small crowd, while the kangaroos kept us waiting for a good half hour before casually hopping out, sending a ripple of cheers and camera clicks through the visitors. My son’s verdict in the end, and I quote, was, “ Mom, this is like being at a safari without going to the jungle!”

Getting there and eating nearby

Parking is limited, so taking a cab or Uber is the easiest option. The main gate faces the Taj Bengal, making the approach pleasant and easy to spot. We chose to have lunch before entering, which was a smart move with children. We ate at Somponno, a nearby café serving a Bengali-Chinese take on noodles that was surprisingly good. You will also find plenty of other cafés nearby if you check online maps.

Tips for the best visit

• Set aside at least three hours to see everything comfortably.
• Wear comfortable walking shoes as the grounds are extensive.
• Weekdays are quieter, though you may run into school trips.
• Choose cooler weather to make the walk more pleasant and to see more active animals.
• If visiting with children, go after breakfast or lunch to avoid mid-visit hunger.

India is full of hidden treasures, and the Alipore Zoo is one worth adding to your list. Pair a visit here with a steamer ride across the Hooghly River, some puchka from a local vendor while you get set to take a yellow taxi back across the Howrah Bridge, or an evening at Victoria Memorial with a ride in the horse carriages outside, along with a box of Bengali sweets, and you have the perfect Kolkata day.

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