Zanskar: The untamed pulse of Ladakh

High in the Indian Himalaya, Ladakh is renowned for its stark beauty — the cobalt skies, the high mountain passes, the centuries-old monasteries that cling to its cliffs. Yet hidden within its rugged folds lies an even greater marvel: the Zanskar canyon. This is Ladakh stripped to its rawest essence, a gorge so deep and silent that it seems to hold the memory of time itself. Through it runs the Zanskar river, one of the most challenging and extraordinary white-water journeys in the world.

A geological cathedral

Unlike the celebrated high passes and monasteries of Ladakh, the Zanskar canyon remains little spoken of, even among seasoned travellers. Here, the landscape feels almost unearthly: cliffs burn red under the sun, streaked with copper and purple seams, while turquoise waters slice through their base. Waterfalls erupt directly from rock walls, plunging into the river below. The effect is that of a natural cathedral, vast and humbling, where time is measured not by hours but by bends in the river and the slow carving of stone.

A river alive

The Zanskar is no ordinary river. Glacier-fed and wild, it is alive with shifting moods. At times, it compresses into narrow corridors, releasing ferocious Class IV and V rapids that demand grit and precision. At others, it opens to skies so immense they seem to swallow the traveller whole. Many describe it as a living force — breathing, roaring, and singing beneath the sun. To enter its waters is not to conquer but to belong, if only briefly, to something larger than oneself.

More than rapids

An expedition down the Zanskar is as much a cultural journey as it is an adventure. Along its banks, monasteries dating back hundreds of years bear witness to the enduring spirituality of the region. Villages appear as pockets of resilience, their inhabitants living in tune with the seasons, still untouched by the curated experiences of mass tourism. The echoes of prayer wheels mix with the rumble of river and wind, while children wave from cliffside paths, their smiles carrying both curiosity and quiet blessings.

Evenings on the riverbank reveal another dimension of the journey. Camps at 14,000 feet offer the simple luxuries of warm meals, fresh fruit, and star-lit skies. It is in these pauses that the magnitude of the place truly settles: the bustle of the current, the stillness of the body, the reminder that the river demands respect rather than conquest.

A global classic under threat

For the global rafting community, Zanskar holds legendary status. Often called the “Grand Canyon of Asia,” it ranks among the world’s great river expeditions. Yet unlike the American Canyon, Zanskar remains without protection. Development creeps ever closer, with new roads and infrastructure threatening to alter the fragile balance of this landscape. The construction may bring accessibility, but it also risks eroding the ecological and cultural integrity that make the river unique.

Adventure travel pioneer Vaibhav Kala, who has guided expeditions here since the earliest days of river running in India, is unequivocal in his appeal for urgent action:

“As the roads connect remote Zanskar, governance is served. Now, we must preserve one of the grandest natural spectacles in the country, for our future generations; and preserve it with legislated protection, fierce in its ambit, with only responsible tourism allowed within the confines of what must be declared a National Sanctuary.”

A call for preservation

The Zanskar river expedition is not simply an adrenaline pursuit; it is an immersion into an elemental world of stone, water, and silence. It transforms the way travellers measure life, replacing the rhythm of clocks with the cadence of rapids, camps, and constellations.

But this transformation is possible only if the river is protected. Without decisive measures, one of India’s greatest natural treasures could be compromised beyond repair. The task before us is clear: to secure Zanskar’s future as both a global adventure classic and a national natural heritage monument.

In safeguarding the Zanskar, India would not only protect a spectacular river system but also uphold a legacy — a reminder that some places are too rare, too powerful, and too precious to be left unguarded.

Disclaimer: The views expressed in this article are those of the author/authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of ET Edge Insights, its management, or its members

Afghan foreign minister Amir Khan Muttaqi was scheduled to visit India later this month, but the trip has been put off due to UN Security Council sanctions that restrict his foreign travel, PTI reported citing people familiar with the matter on Friday. The visit was postponed after he failed to obtain a waiver, they said.

Had it taken place, it would have been the first ministerial visit from Kabul to New Delhi since the Taliban seized power in August 2021.

Under the UN sanctions regime, Taliban leaders are required to secure special clearance for international travel.

When asked about reports of Muttaqi’s planned visit, External Affairs Ministry spokesperson Randhir Jaiswal refrained from a direct confirmation.

“We have longstanding ties with the people of Afghanistan. India continues to support their aspirations and developmental needs,” he said. “We continue to engage with Afghan authorities. If there is an update, we will share it with you.”

External Affairs Minister S. Jaishankar had earlier spoken with Muttaqi on May 15, marking the highest-level contact between the two sides since the Taliban takeover.

India has not recognised the Taliban administration, instead urging the formation of an inclusive government in Kabul. New Delhi has also maintained that Afghan soil must never be used for terrorist activities against any country.

Meanwhile, after a series of earthquakes struck eastern Afghanistan, killing over 800 people and injuring more than 2,800, India rushed urgent humanitarian aid to support relief efforts.

Following the collapse of the Ghani government, India shut its embassy in Kabul and evacuated staff from consulates in Kandahar and Mazar-e-Sharif. However, over the past two years, New Delhi has gradually expanded its engagements with Taliban representatives.

Since 2021, India has sent 50,000 tonnes of wheat, 350 tonnes of medicines, 40,000 litres of Malathion fertiliser, and 28 tonnes of relief material to Afghanistan, including assistance after the 2023 Herat earthquake.

As Ganpati Visarjan festivities are going to be organized throughout Mumbai today, the traffic police in the city have released an exhaustive advisory announcing diversions, alternative routes, and restrictions on traffic movement. Travelers are requested to make advance travel plans so as to avoid inconvenience.

Traffic Restrictions and No-Parking Zones

Some roads in Central Mumbai and the Western Suburbs will be impacted by the celebrations. The movement of goods vehicles is strictly banned on major roads to enable a smooth flow of pedestrian and festival traffic.

Central Mumbai:

• Worli: Dr. Annie Besant Road and RG Thandani Road: No parking.
• Dadar: Goods vehicles are prohibited on Gokhale Road, SK Bole Road, and Swatantravir Savarkar Marg. Parking stands prohibited on Swatantravir Savarkar Marg, MB Raut Marg, and Shivaji Park Road No. 5.
• Mahim: Goods vehicles are prohibited on Gen AK Vaidya Marg, LJ Road, Mori Road, and TH Katariya Marg.
• Matunga: Goods vehicles are prohibited on Tilak Bridge Road, and parking stands prohibited on Dr. BA Road.
• Kurla: Goods vehicles are banned on LBS Road, New Mill Road, and KK Krishna Menon Road.

In view of Anant Chaturdashi & Ganpati Visarjan following traffic arrangements will be in place in Central Mumbai.

Citizens are requested to plan their commute accordingly.#MTPTrafficUpdateshttps://t.co/gnNcQDYW0d
— Mumbai Traffic Police (@MTPHereToHelp) September 5, 2025

Western Suburbs:

Santacruz: Goods vehicles are banned on Devle Road and Vaikunthalal Mehta Marg. Parking is restricted on Janardhan Mahtre Road and Juhu Road, among others.

In view of Anant Chaturdashi & Ganpati Visarjan following traffic arrangements will be in place in Western Suburbs of Mumbai.

Citizens are requested to plan their commute accordingly.#MTPTrafficUpdates https://t.co/SY0R0p9e8z
— Mumbai Traffic Police (@MTPHereToHelp) September 5, 2025

DN Nagar & Goregaon: No-parking zones are in force on a number of important roads, such as JP Road and MG Road.

Kandivali: Goods vehicles are banned on KT Son Marg, Kalpana Chawla Chowk, and Abdul Hamid Road. MG Road and SV Road have no-parking zones.

Suggested Alternate Routes

To relieve congestion, the Mumbai Traffic Police have provided alternative routes to commuters. Motorists can travel via routes like Gold Spot Junction (Bisleri Junction) to Bahar Junction and Shivaji Chowk to Captain Gore Bridge (Parle Bridge) as effective alternates to travel within the city.

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