A tour of the bones being unearthed at Pipestone Creek
Hidden beneath the slopes of a lush forest in Alberta, Canada, is a mass grave on a monumental scale.
Thousands of dinosaurs were buried here, killed in an instant on a day of utter devastation.
Now, a group of palaeontologists have come to Pipestone Creek – appropriately nicknamed the “River of Death” – to help solve a 72-million-year-old enigma: how did they die?
Trying to work out exactly what happened here starts with the hefty strike of a sledgehammer.
Brute force is needed to crack open the thick layer of rock that covers what Professor Emily Bamforth, who’s leading the dig, describes as “palaeo gold”.
As her team begins the more delicate job of removing the layers of dirt and dust, a jumble of fossilised bones slowly begins to emerge.
Kevin Church/BBC News
A hip bone of a Pachyrhinosaur is one of thousands of discoveries in the creek
“That big blob of bone right there is, we think, part of a hip,” Prof Bamforth says, watched on by her dog Aster – whose job today is to bark if she spots any nearby bears.
“Then here, we have all of these long, skinny bones. These are all ribs. And this is a neat one – it’s part of a toe bone. This one here, we have no idea what it is – it’s a great example of a Pipestone Creek mystery.”
BBC News has come to Pipestone Creek to witness the sheer scale of this prehistoric graveyard and see how researchers are piecing together the clues.
Thousands of fossils have been collected from the site, and are constantly generating new discoveries.
Kevin Church/BBC News
Prof Bamforth’s dog, Aster, on lookout duties
The bones all belong to a dinosaur called Pachyrhinosaurus. The species, and Prof Bamforth’s excavation, feature in a new landmark BBC series – Walking With Dinosaurs – which uses visual effects and science to bring this prehistoric world to life.
These animals, which lived during the Late Cretaceous period, were a relative of the Triceratops. Measuring about five metres long and weighing two tonnes, the four-legged beasts had large heads, adorned with a distinctive bony frill and three horns. Their defining feature was a big bump on the nose called a boss.
The dig season has just started and lasts each year until autumn. The fossils in the small patch of ground that the team are working on are incredibly tightly packed; Prof Bamforth estimates there are up to 300 bones in every square metre.
So far, her team has excavated an area the size of a tennis court, but the bed of bones extends for a kilometre into the hillside.
“It’s jaw dropping in terms of its density,” she tells us.
“It is, we believe, one of the largest bone beds in North America.
“More than half of the known dinosaur species in the world are described from a single specimen. We have thousands of Pachyrhinosaurus here.”
Kevin Church/BBC News
Pipestone Creek still holds many secrets
Palaeontologists believe the dinosaurs were migrating together in a colossal herd for hundreds of miles from the south – where they had spent the winter – to the north for the summer.
The area, which had a much warmer climate than it does today, would have been covered in rich vegetation, providing abundant food for this enormous group of plant-eating animals.
“It is a single community of a single species of animal from a snapshot in time, and it’s a huge sample size. That almost never happens in the fossil record,” says Prof Bamforth.
Walking with Dinosaurs/BBC Studios
Pachyrhinosaurus had distinctive unicorn-style horns, as shown in this computer-generated image
Bigger beasts offering clues
And this patch of north-western Alberta wasn’t just home to Pachyrhinosaurus. Even bigger dinosaurs roamed this land, and studying them is essential to try and understand this ancient ecosystem.
Two hours drive away, we reach the Deadfall Hills. Getting there involves a hike through dense forest, wading – or doggy-paddling in the case of Aster – across a fast-running river, and clambering over slippery rocks.
No digging is required here; super-sized bones lie next to the shoreline, washed out from the rock and cleaned by the flowing water, just waiting to be picked up.
A huge vertebra is quickly spotted, as are bits of ribs and teeth scattered across the mud.
Kevin Church/BBC News
A toe bone found in the Deadfall Hills, home to the Edmontosaurus
Palaeontologist Jackson Sweder is particularly interested in what looks like a chunk of dinosaur skull. “Most of what we find here is a duck-billed dinosaur called Edmontosaurus. If this is a skull bone, this is a dinosaur that’s large – probably 30ft (10m) long,” he says.
The Edmontosaurus, another herbivore, roamed the forests like the Pachyrhinosaurus – and is helping palaeontologists build up a picture of this ancient land.
Sweder is the collection manager at the Philip J Currie Dinosaur Museum in nearby Grande Prairie, where the bones from both of these giants are taken to be cleaned up and analysed. He is currently working on a huge Pachyrhinosaurus skull that’s about 1.5m long and has been nicknamed “Big Sam”.
Kevin Church/BBC News
Jackson Sweder works on ‘Big Sam’ for clues about this ancient world
He points to where the three horns should be at the top of the frill, but the one in the middle is missing. “All the skulls that are decently complete have a spike in that spot,” he says. “But its nice little unicorn spike doesn’t seem to be there.”
Throughout years working at the extraordinary site, the museum team has collected 8,000 dinosaur bones, and the surfaces of the lab are covered in fossils; there are bones from Pachyrhinosaurus of every size, from young to old.
Having material from so many animals allows researchers to learn about dinosaur biology, answering questions about how the species grows and the make-up of the community. They can also look at individual variations, to see how one Pachyrhinosaurus could stand out from the herd – as may be the case with Big Sam and his missing spike.
A sudden devastating event
Walking with Dinosaurs/BBC Studios
The herd of beasts were likely wiped out in a natural disaster
All of this detailed research, in the museum and at the two sites, is helping the team to answer the vital question: how did so many animals in Pipestone Creek die at the same time?
“We believe that this was a herd on a seasonal migration that got tangled up in some catastrophic event that effectively wiped out, if not the entire herd, then a good proportion of it,” Prof Bamforth says.
All the evidence suggests that this catastrophic event was a flash flood – perhaps a storm over the mountains that sent an unstoppable torrent of water towards the herd, ripping trees from their roots and shifting boulders.
Prof Bamforth says the Pachyrhinosaurus wouldn’t have stood a chance. “These animals are not able to move very fast because of their sheer numbers, and they’re very top heavy – and really not very good at swimming at all.”
Rocks found at the site show the swirls of sediment from the fast-flowing water churning everything up. It’s as if the destruction is frozen in time as a wave in the stone.
Kevin Church/BBC News
A wave can be seen in a rock found from the creek
But this nightmare day for the dinosaurs is now a dream for palaeontologists.
“We know, every time we come here, it’s 100% guaranteed we’ll find bones. And every year we discover something new about the species,” says Prof Bamforth.
“That’s why we keep coming back, because we’re still finding new things.”
As the team packs up their tools ready to return another day, they know there’s a lot of work ahead. They’ve only just scratched the surface of what’s here – and there are many more prehistoric secrets just waiting to be revealed.
The new series of Walking With Dinosaurs starts on Sunday 25 May at 18:25 BST on BBC One, with all episodes available on BBC iPlayer.
Walking With Dinosaurs/BBC Studios
Before disaster struck, the Pachyrhinosaurus are thought to have been migrating, as shown in this computerised image
Indonesia’s Mount Lewotobi Laki-laki has begun erupting again – at one point shooting an ash cloud 18km (11mi) into the sky – as residents flee their homes once more.
There have been no reports of casualties since Monday morning, when the volcano on the island of Flores began spewing ash and lava again. Authorities have placed it on the highest alert level since an earlier round of eruptions three weeks ago.
At least 24 flights to and from the neighbouring resort island of Bali were cancelled on Monday, though some flights had resumed by Tuesday morning.
The initial column of hot clouds that rose at 11:05 (03:05 GMT) Monday was the volcano’s highest since November, said geology agency chief Muhammad Wafid.
“An eruption of that size certainly carries a higher potential for danger, including its impact on aviation,” Wafid told The Associated Press.
Monday’s eruption, which was accompanied by a thunderous roar, led authorities to enlarge the exclusion zone to a 7km radius from the central vent. They also warned of potential lahar floods – a type of mud or debris flow of volcanic materials – if heavy rain occurs.
The twin-peaked volcano erupted again at 19:30 on Monday, sending ash clouds and lava up to 13km into the air. It erupted a third time at 05:53 on Tuesday at a reduced intensity.
Videos shared overnight show glowing red lava spurting from the volcano’s peaks as residents get into cars and buses to flee.
More than 4,000 people have been evacuated from the area so far, according to the local disaster management agency.
Residents who have stayed put are facing a shortage of water, food and masks, local authorities say.
“As the eruption continues, with several secondary explosions and ash clouds drifting westward and northward, the affected communities who have not been relocated… require focused emergency response efforts,” say Paulus Sony Sang Tukan, who leads the Pululera village, about 8km from Lewotobi Laki-laki.
“Water is still available, but there’s concern about its cleanliness and whether it has been contaminated, since our entire area was blanketed in thick volcanic ash during yesterday’s [eruptions],” he said.
Indonesia sits on the Pacific “Ring of Fire” where tectonic plates collide, causing frequent volcanic activity as well as earthquakes.
Lewotobi Laki-laki has erupted multiple times this year – no casualties have been reported so far.
Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.
Holding a virtual monopoly in a product on which the artificial intelligence boom relies should be a golden ticket. For chipmaker Nvidia, it has been. But ASML, which makes extraordinarily complex machines that etch silicon and is no less integral to the rise of AI, has found that ruling the roost can still be an up-and-down affair.
The €270bn Dutch manufacturer, which reports its earnings next week, is a sine qua non of technology; chips powering AI and even fridges are invariably etched by ASML’s kit. The flipside is its exposure to customers’ fortunes and politics.
Revenue is inherently lumpy, and a single paused purchase makes a big dent — a key difference from fellow AI monopolist Nvidia, which is at present struggling to meet demand for its top-end chips. ASML’s newest high numerical aperture (NA) systems go for €380mn; as an example of how volatile revenue can be for such big-ticket items, one delayed order would be akin to drivers holding off on buying 8,000-odd Teslas.
Initial hopes were high for robust spending on wafer fab equipment this year and next. Semi, an industry body, in December reckoned on an increase of 7 per cent this year and twice that in 2026. Jefferies, for example, now expects sales to flatline next year.
Mood music bears that out. Top chipmaker TSMC has sounded more cautious over the timing of the adoption of new high NA machines. Other big customers are reining in spending. Intel in April shaved its capital expenditure plans by $2bn to $18bn, while consensus numbers for Samsung Electronics suggest the South Korean chipmaker will underspend last year’s $39bn capex budget.
Politics is also getting thornier. Washington, seeking to hobble China’s tech prowess, has banned sales of ASML’s more advanced machines. Going further would hurt. China, which buys the less advanced but more profitable deep ultraviolet machines, typically accounts for about a quarter of sales. Last year, catch-up on orders lifted that to half.
Meanwhile, Chinese homegrown competition, given an extra nudge by US trade barriers, is evolving. Shenzhen government-backed SiCarrier, for example, claims to have encroached on ASML territory with lithography capable of producing less advanced chips.
The good news is that catch-up in this industry, with a 5,000-strong supplier base and armies of engineers, requires years if not decades. Customers, too, will probably be deferring rather than nixing purchases. The zippier machines help customers juice yields; Intel reckons it cuts processes on a given layer from 40 steps to just 10.
Over time, ASML’s enviable market position looks solid — and perhaps more so than that of Nvidia, whose customers are increasingly trying to create their own chips. Yet the kit-maker’s shares have been the rockier investment. In the past year, ASML has shrunk by a third while Nvidia has risen by a quarter; its market capitalisation is within a whisker of $4tn. That makes ASML the braver bet, but by no means a worse one.
Peter Thiel is unlike any other Trump tech bro. As well as a wildly successful investor, he’s seen as a thinker – the philosopher king of Silicon Valley. Thiel’s acolytes in the tech world and Washington include vice-president JD Vance but his relationship with the Trump camp is complicated. And there are still questions about what, if anything, he wants with the president.
In the final episode of this season of Tech Tonic, Murad Ahmed speaks to FT columnist Gillian Tett about Thiel’s political philosophy, and to Tabby Kinder, the FT’s West Coast financial editor, about his influence in Silicon Valley.
This season of Tech Tonic is presented by Murad Ahmed and produced by Josh Gabert-Doyon. The senior producer is Edwin Lane and the executive producer is Flo Phillips. Sound design by Sam Giovinco. Breen Turner and Samantha Giovinco. Original music by Metaphor Music, Manuela Saragosa and Topher Forhecz are the FT’s acting co-heads of audio.